Lallmatie is a large village in the province of Flacq with a population of around 12 000.
This village is quite unusual in that the name comes from the Hindi words red earth (technically laal mittee – red soil).
Lallmatie started off as a small residential suburb where workers from the numerous sugar estates in the area would live. A pistachio shop was one of the first shops in the village and it was set up my two brothers. The one now still runs the shop, now a sweet shop, with his daughter.
Swaraj Bhawan, the independence building, was built through a fund raising effort and encouraged the growth of the village. One of the first cinemas in Mauritius, the Globe, was built in Lallmatie.
In 1937, events that started in Lallmatie lead to a change labour rights in Mauritius.
For decades leading up to the 1930’s, the sugar industry had suffered many blows which had lead to a sharp decline in prices. The workers had not received any increases and on many occasion had to put in extra work. Particularly around the turn of the century when Surra disease decimated the draught animal population.
Most effected were the smaller growers as they also did not benefit from the research into more profitable sugar strains being carried out at Pamplemousses. They also did not receive the government assistance granted to the larger mills. As a result, they developed their own strain which they called Uba. It had a very high yield but a low sucrose content.
By 1937 the prices of sugar had slowly started to recover so everyone thought that finally wages could increase.
On the 1880 map below you can see the area of what is now Lallmatie and the numerous sugar mills around it.
Then came an announcement that the mills would only buy Uba at 15% less than other strains. The workers went on strike after the planters could not negotiate a higher price and therefore could not increase the wages. The government tried to step in to negotiate with the mills to pay a higher price after the strike started spreading to other areas.
One of the mills that refused to pay extra was L’Union which was an Indian family owned mill (Rajcoomar Gujadhur) near Lallmatie . L’Union (now Alteo) became the target of about 200 workers and small planters who marched there on the 13th August 1937 and cut phone cables, overturned tramways and set fire to the sugar fields. The security workers at the factory opened fire on the protestors killing 4 and injuring 6.
This lead to an outcry from the entire population and eventually the formation of Trade Unions, the legalisation of strikes, a minimum wage and the establishment of the Department of Labour and Social Welfare.
A visit to Lallmatie is not complete without mentioning Touni Minuit (naked midnight), the supposed werewolf who terrorised the village in 1994 shortly after Cyclone Hollanda caused devastation in Mauritius.
People reported seeing a naked man roaming around at night, his body covered in oil to avoid captured. Some swore they had seen him transform into a cat or bat or werewolf while others were more sceptical but still scared.
Due to the cyclone, many animals had fled the forests to seek refuge in the cities as many people had also witnessed. Nevertheless, the rumours spread around the small island. Even Port Louis had a story if you left your window open, the werewolf would come in at night and finish your homework. I think that was more wishful thinking on the part of the students though.
However, the culprit was found and he turned out to be a man with knowledge of the occult.
A police officer in 2008 explained: “You know that the werewolf affair is attributed to a local resident who says he learned the occult sciences in Madagascar. He gives courses in the subject and mainly trains women. He is often seen at night at Lallmatie cemetery with his ‘students’. ” “Many have now become? Masters?” and make money by taking advantage of the too great credulity of the people”
There is also the legend of Minis Prince, who watches over homes and gardens. This particular spirit should be appeased with rum, cigarettes and sardines (?) at the start of each month. Interestingly Minis Prince is often described having a similar appearance to the Slender Man, who is supposed to appear all over the world and watch people.
A few years earlier, in Lallmatie, there were claimed to be sightings of a white carriage with two ladies dressed in white and white horses that used to ride around at midnight.
There is a deep fresh water well located in Lallmatie that dates back over 100 years.
The Madoo family has been taking care of this well (apparently located in Lallmatie Branch road) for generations. It used to be a vital source of drinking water for the population as it never dried up.
There were 4 in the area but this is the last one remaining.
We walked almost the entire length of Branch Road, and it is a long road, abut could not locate the well. Local residents offered to help in our quest but only the the Madoo family as the ones who owned the Tabagie shop. We will have to try again another time.
There is possibly another well still surviving located near a house which used to below to a Mr Vaudin. This house is near the sugar mill chimney of Constance mill, so we will save it for a visit to that village.
Lallmatie has a bustling city centre which is conveniently grouped down the main road and not spread out like many of the larger villages. This makes a walk about town to try out street foods and meet interesting people very easy.
There is a shoe repair man on the main road, you will find him quite easily. He is visited by people from all across the island to get their shoes repaired with his age old methods. What a friendly, happy man and so nice to chat to. He has been there for 25 years repairing people’s shoes.
Just opposite the Royal Supermarket (which has a parking area at the back) you will find a host of fruit and veg sellers and many street foods. Do try the fresh sev if he is there on his motorbike, it is amazing. Also, as usual, the fresh seasonal fruits with some tamarin and chilli (if you can handle it).
Check out our video below to get a feel for the village of Lallmatie.
Most people visiting Mauritius would not have heard about Lallmatie but it is a lovely village to visit to get a feel for the real Mauritius. There is parking, food, snacks and shopping all convenient located in one main street.
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